Воскресенье, 28 апреля 2024

Производство халлуми под угрозой

Акция протеста фермеров в Никосии перед воротами Президентского дворца в 2022 году. Фото politis.com.cy
Акция протеста фермеров в Никосии перед воротами Президентского дворца в 2022 году. Фото politis.com.cy

Производители халлуми пригрозили с 10 января закрыть свои сыродельни, а производители коровьего молока пообещали всю свою продукцию выливать на дорогу перед Президентским дворцом. Что стало поводом для такой суровой реакции?

Дело в том, что с 1 января вступило в силу соглашение, подписанное сторонами 22 июля 2022 года. Согласно ему, доля смеси козьего и овечьего молока в халлуми должна увеличиться до 19%. Это означает сокращение доли коровьего молока.

Спор возник после того, как в октябре Ассоциация сыроделов объявила, что считает себя вправе не выполнять заключенное ранее соглашение. Сыроделы и производители коровьего молока обратились к правительству с просьбой продлить переходный период еще на пять лет, то есть до 2029 года. Они также заявили, что правительство не выполнило свою часть соглашения, так как его текст так и не был направлен в Комиссию по защите конкуренции, в результате чего производители сыра могут получить штрафы за свои действия.

С другой стороны, животноводы, занимающиеся разведением коз и овец, раскритиковали производителей коровьего молока за отступление от договоренностей. Они отметили, что закон четко устанавливает срок окончания переходного периода – июль 2024 года. После этой даты на сыродельнях начнутся инспекции, которые будут проверять состав продукции и ее соответствие стандарту, утвержденному в ЕС.

Представители Ассоциации сыроделов встретятся с главой государства, министрами сельского хозяйства и торговли 4 января, чтобы обсудить возможные пути выхода из кризиса.

Согласно договоренностям, с февраля этого года халлуми уже на 25% должен состоять из смеси козьего/овечьего молока и на 75% – из коровьего. Конечная цель – достичь в составе доли 50/50, то есть прийти к тому, как халлуми готовили в кипрских деревнях издревле.

Тем временем, турко-кипрская газета «Анадолу» опубликовала интервью с владелицей сыродельни Серпиль Кадикёй. Она рассказала, что ее предприятие по производству халлуми (или хеллима, как его называют по-турецки) в деревне Агия Ирини стало обязательным местом для посещения туристами. У гостей есть возможность понаблюдать как за процессом ферментации халлуми, так и за приготовлением традиционного кипрского деревенского хлеба, также посетители могут испечь свой собственный хлеб. Серпиль вспомнила, как до разделения острова халлуми готовили вместе с соседями греками-киприотами. Когда молока было мало, они объединяли свои ресурсы, чтобы делать халлуми вместе.

Текст подготовлен по материалам Cyprus Mail, «Политис»

В тему

Кипрский сыр халиджи, или халиджа, родственник халлуми, в декабре 2023 года получил маркировку защищенного географического указания (PGI). Сыр, который по-турецки известен как «хелык», делают в районе Тиллирия. Подробнее рассказывали здесь

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